Bohler-Uddehold Swedish Steel · Migaki · 62 g
Only 2 left · Ships within 1-2 business days
Every blade on this site gets its own trading card - tier-colored, kamon-stamped, and built around the seven specs that actually predict how the knife behaves on the line. Steel. Hardness. Edge. Length. Handle. Finish. Origin.
“Swedish powder steel, Japanese geometry. Hard, fine, unforgiving.”
“Swedish powder steel, Japanese geometry. Hard, fine, unforgiving.”
The utility knife. Short, pointed, agile - for jobs that ask too much of a paring knife and too little of a gyuto.
Mincing shallots, segmenting citrus, trimming a fillet. The blade that lives on the second cutting board.
When to reach for a pettyFull-tang construction - the steel runs the length of the handle, sandwiched between two scales of wood or composite, held with metal rivets.
Shifts the balance back toward the hand and adds weight. The familiar shape for cooks coming from German or French knives. Durable, ambidextrous, easy to grip wet.
Where this blade earns its keep - and where it's the wrong tool.
Warm water + a soft sponge. No dishwasher, ever - the heat warps the handle and the detergent eats the edge.
Wipe to bone-dry the moment it leaves the sink. Standing water is the enemy - even on stainless.
Stainless doesn't need daily oiling. If you're putting it away for more than a month, a thin pass of camellia oil keeps the steel happy.
Daily use: dry and rack. No oil required.
A 1000-grit waterstone every few weeks. Stropping between for a longer life on the edge.
A saya for storage. A stone for the edge. An oil for the steel.
1000-grit waterstone. The workhorse grit for kitchen edges.
“Grandchef SP Petty 120mm is the second-board knife - small, sharp, and faster than a paring blade. Bohler-Uddehold Swedish Steel sits comfortably in the working range of a Japanese kitchen blade, running at HRC 61-63. In the kitchen, that means it lives on the trim station: shallots, citrus, herbs, anything that doesn't deserve the big knife. It sits in our catalog because it earns its keep on a working line, the geometry is honest, and the steel is what the maker said it is. We've held it. That's what gets a knife on this site. ”
- Ethan
Yes - the chromium content in the steel passes a thin oxide layer over the surface that resists rust under normal kitchen use. You still hand-wash and dry it like any good knife (no dishwasher, no soaking), but you don't need the daily oil-wipe routine a carbon blade needs.
No knife you care about should go in a dishwasher. The heat warps the handle, the detergent dulls the edge, and clattering against other dishes chips the bevel. Hand-wash with warm water and a soft sponge, then dry immediately.
HRC stands for "Rockwell Hardness, scale C" - a measurement of how hard the steel is. Higher numbers mean the steel holds an edge longer but is also more brittle. This knife is 61-63 HRC, which is the working sweet spot for Japanese kitchen blades.
Use a Japanese waterstone. 1000-grit for regular sharpening, 5000-grit for finishing. Soak the stone if it needs soaking (most modern Shapton-style stones are splash-and-go), hold the blade at around a 15-degree angle to the stone (a folded coin makes a decent gauge), grind one bevel until you raise a burr along the entire edge, flip and do the other side. Finish with light alternating strokes to remove the burr. Steer clear of pull-through sharpeners - they tear the edge.
We ship from our EU warehouse in Prague. Free across the EU on orders over €80, ~3-5 business days. Outside EU: standard rates apply, customs handled at destination. Tracking on every order.
30 days, no questions asked. Ship it back, we refund. Damage from misuse (hitting bone, frozen food, dropping) isn't covered - but normal 'this isn't right for me' is. Email office@smartsushichef.com to start.
Pick one more to compare side by side.
